In the mountains of Kumera on Tanna Island, Vanuatu, the village women of Kamahaul normally spend over 10,000 Vatu ($83 USD) to travel to the nearest hospital.  It takes an hour to travel up the steep, rugged, tire-track terrain by car, but it takes two hours by foot - the normal form of commute for villagers.  Alani*, a 22-year-old mother of three, said that after Tropical Cyclones Kevin and Judy hit Vanuatu in March 2023, it has been even harder to travel to the hospital.  “After the cyclone, my crops were destroyed. I usually take my kids with me to the market and sell produce but after the cyclone, I do not have any money. If I have to go to the hospital for my 3-month injectable [contraceptive], I spend 5,000 Vatu one way, then 500 for medicine at hospital then I pay 5,000 Vatu to come back.” This is equivalent to over 100 AUD, which is unaffordable for most people like Alani.   Village spokesperson, Jimmy, said that the community is grateful for the Vanuatu Family Health Association (VFHA) as they are the first medical team to visit the remote community.  “I feel sorry for our mamas, they must spend so much money just to get medicine,” he said. “In our village, we have a lot of young single mothers and most of the time, trucks refuse to come up here because of the bad road. They must walk for two hours just to get to the main road, sometimes whilst pregnant, holding bags and their many children. This is why I invited VFHA to come here, so women don’t have to spend so much money and time just to get health services.”  The outreach programme was part of VFHA’s humanitarian response to the cyclone.  “We’ve been overwhelmed by the testimonies of hardships shared by the women in this community,” said Kalowi Kaltapangm VFHA Programme Manager. “Girls and women should not be paying over 100 AUD just to have access to sexual reproductive health services – it is not right. We thank Australia through DFAT for allowing us to reach more people post-disaster.”  Jimmy added that the community is grateful for the VFHA visit and hopes they set up a clinic in Kumera.  “After Tropical Cyclones Judy and Kevin, we lost about 21 homes across the communities here and most of the food crops are gone. If you travel further, you will still see some families still in tents. People are still rebuilding their lives and it's hard to rebuild if women fall pregnant again.’  The VFHA response team reached a total of 21 communities and more than 3,000 beneficiaries across Tafea Province. This included mobile outreach to 15 communities on Tanna Island, three communities on Futuna and three communities in Aneityum.   

“Very traditional.” These two words are often used to describe the people of Tanna in Vanuatu, one of the most populated islands in the small country in the Pacific.  Between 1 and 5 March 2023, the Vanuatu islands were hit by two consecutive Category 4 cyclones (“Judy” and “Kevin”) with widespread damage to the northwest and northeastern islands. Authorities report that some 250,000 people were affected, representing more than 80 per cent of the population.  Since 28 March, The Vanuatu Family Health Association (VFHA) has been conducting their humanitarian response on Tanna. Team Leader, Enneth Ilaisa, said that they are very surprised by their breakthrough with communities - especially with the men.   “Tanna is known to be very traditional, even in the past it was almost impossible get access to these communities to talk about sex, but now it is slowly changing, and we are surprised. In our recent field visits, we have seen men step forward bringing their wives and even their daughters to get family planning!” says Ilaisa.  Levi, a 47-year-old father, said that he brought his daughter to the VFHA site to get Jadelle [a long-acting contraceptive] because he does not want his daughter to fall pregnant.  “After the cyclones, I saw pregnant mothers walking to the hospitals for check-ups and I told myself that I do not want that for my daughter. I do not want her to suffer if the boy runs away. Some men were talking about VFHA, and I was surprised that even though most were hesitant to get family planning for their daughters because it meant that they were able to have sex, they also did not want their daughters to suffer,” says Levi.   Ilaisa added that they have seen more men step forward due to their work with community chiefs to ensure men attend the information sessions.  “We talk to the men too, we educate them. Then after they go to nakamal (a traditional meeting place in Vanuatu used for gatherings and ceremonies), they tell all the men about what they learnt. I believe because people are still recovering from the cyclones, men have seen the firsthand challenges of women getting pregnant and the hardships of looking after a pregnant woman when you have lost everything after a cyclone. “  31-year-old Rose, from Kumera, said that she is surprised her husband advocated for her to get family planning.   “I can’t thank VFHA enough, my husband, who previously accused me of cheating when I told him I wanted to get family planning, is the same man who now wants me to get family planning. I thank VFHA for also speaking to the men as they are usually the problem when it comes to family planning!” says Rose.  VFHA Programme Manager, Kalowi Kaltapang thanked his hardworking humanitarian team for their perseverance in breaking down barriers of sex in communities, but most importantly, the great support from DFAT in funding the humanitarian response.  “It's always been tricky to engage men in these spaces, but I thank DFAT, IPPF and the hardworking VFHA humanitarian team, who are steadfast in their mission to ensure that everyone has access to SRH services.”    

Girls and women from nearby villages flock to mobile health clinics set up by the Vanuatu Family Health Association (VFHA). The response team from VFHA consists mostly of women, who have already been away from their families for over six weeks. Team Leader, Enneth Ilaisa, mentally prepares her team for the long day ahead.  The 12-member team, consisting of nine women and three men, have been conducting community outreach on Tanna Island, Vanuatu since 28 March 2023, as part of their humanitarian response to Tropical Cyclones Judy and Kevin, which tore through Vanuatu.   “Our team consists of nine mothers who have left their families to provide these essential services to vulnerable communities. When people visit us, we must put on a happy face to make them feel welcome but sometimes it gets hard,” says Ilaisa.  Ilaisa said that the women in the medical team have been away from their homes for so long that their husbands would sometimes be overwhelmed with looking after the children and often would call the women on the team ‘selfish’ for choosing to leave their families.  Sexual and reproductive health nurse, Cindy Mahi, said she sometimes feels bad for leaving her partner alone to look after the children. When she sees clients with their children, she says she feels homesick.  “I call my family every morning, and sometimes my husband complains about me being away – and it really hurts, especially if I hear my children in the background asking when I will be back. I feel so guilty sometimes as a mother!” says Mahi.  Ilaisa added that the stress from leaving their families is compounded by an intense working environment delivering vital sexual and reproductive healthcare to remote communities.  “Our work is such that we leave our accommodation before sunrise and return after sunset. People are very tired and sometimes we are so busy helping clients that we often work through lunch to ensure we help everyone,” says Ilaisa.  Mahi said that these are things people don’t see when they come to receive services.  “When women come to see us for help, we put on a warm smile, but they do not know about the hardships we face. They do not see what is running at the back of our mind.”   Ilaisa said when it comes to the mental health of the team, she ensures she is creating a safe space where her team members can openly share.  “I offer counselling to them, and I encourage them to share the important work that they do in the field with their husbands, so they know exactly what they do. I sit there and listen to them and sometimes we cry together.”  Ilaisa said that apart from counselling, she encourages the mothers to practice self-care by taking the weekend off and making sure they take adequate breaks throughout the day.  “I tell them, if you feel you need to take a break in the middle of work – do it! When we debrief after our field work, we share the numbers of women who received SRH services, and the feeling of accomplishment is what makes our work worthwhile. When we hear these numbers it reminds us of our purpose, it reminds us of why we are here, and for a second, our family problems fade away because we know we are serving a purpose greater than ourselves.” 

It’s a scene like many others around the world: a loving family pour over childhood photos, giggling and reminiscing about the memories. This particular scene takes place amongst the swaying palm trees and soft breeze rolling over the island of Rarotonga in the Cook Islands, and the child they are cooing over – then named Nathanial – is now a beautiful transgender woman, Natalia.   Born in New Zealand to Cook Islanders parents, 36-year-old Natalia (Talia) Lajpold, says she has always known she was female. Talia grew up in Australia and began her transitioning process at the age of 15. In the last year of her schooling, Talia decided to wear the girl’s uniform to school but was met with disapproval from the school authorities.   “A lot of people think [being transgender] is a choice but if I had a choice, I would choose for things to be normal, the way I was born. Because it’s really hard. High school was hard,” Talia recalls.

The Cook Islands has removed a law that criminalizes homosexuality, in a huge victory for the local LGBTI+ community.  Our local Member Association, the Cook Islands Family Welfare Association (CIFWA), has been integral to the advocacy around this law reform, which has faced many hurdles since the movement kicked off in 2017. Staff and volunteers at CIFWA have worked in step with Pride Cook Islands and the Te Tiare Association (TTA), two of the biggest LGBTI+ advocacy organizations in the country, to end discrimination and promote human rights. Meet some of the inspiring people behind this historic movement.

On the island of Rarotonga, the main island of the Cook Islands in the South Pacific, a little white van makes its rounds on the palm-tree lined circular road. The van, run by the Cook Islands Family Welfare Association (CIFWA), stops off at condom distribution points along the way, refilling the condom stock.  Dean Tangata, a 26-year-old humanitarian focal point for CIFWA and a registered nurse, is behind the wheel.  "Our condom dispensers get emptied so quickly!” said Dean. “We refill them twice a week.”   On Rarotonga, the locals refer to a system called ‘coconut wireless’ - a local phrase meaning to communicate quickly by word-of-mouth. This means that discretion is key to encourage people to practise safe sex and use condoms.  According to the Cook Islands Ministry of Health 2014, sexually transmitted infections (STIs) are common in the Cook Islands. A study conducted in 2006 showed a 22% prevalence rate of chlamydia; 46% of these cases were in people between the ages of 15 and 29 years. After a robust intervention campaign, a repeat survey in 2012 showed a 50% decrease in prevalence. This is why CIFWA instigated a condom dispenser system, placing handmade dispensers (that an industrious staff member made from cutting holes in piping) inside bathrooms in restaurants around the island. “We’re the ‘sex people’ - the ‘sex workers’ who roll up in our condom car,” says Dean, smiling.